Fabric Glossary

Soft, fine wool from the cashmere goat. Used pure or blended with wool for jackets and overcoats. The softest cloth in the library.

A soft-shoulder, slightly heavier suiting cloth associated with mid-century Savile Row. Forgiving, flattering, three-season.

A loosely woven wool cloth with a brushed surface. Warm, soft, the classic winter suiting. Comes in worsted and woolen weights.

Also called Prince of Wales check. A small, soft check overlaid with a larger, fainter window pane. The most versatile pattern in tailoring.

A V-shaped weave that creates a chevron pattern. Subtle from across a room, distinct up close.

A loosely woven, open-weave summer cloth. Breathes well, wrinkles freely. Ideal for warm-climate sport jackets.

A natural fiber from the flax plant. Cool, breathable, wrinkles intentionally. Summer suiting at its most relaxed.

Fiber from the angora goat. Often blended with wool. Crisp, lustrous, formal — common in tuxedo cloth.

A two-tone smooth-finish worsted with a subtle texture. Year-round, business-formal.

A measure of wool fiber fineness — higher numbers mean finer fiber. Super 150s and above are reserved for premium and luxury suiting.

A very lightweight worsted (~7–8oz) designed for hot climates. Breathes well, wrinkles less than linen.

A diagonal weave that produces a sturdy, drapey cloth. Most worsted suiting is some variant of twill.

Fiber from the wild Andean vicuña. The rarest and most expensive fiber in menswear. Used sparingly, in pure or blended form.

A wool spun from long, combed fibers — produces a smooth, crisp cloth. The default for business suits.

A wool spun from short, carded fibers — produces a softer, fuzzier cloth. Flannel and tweed are woolens.